My Harari Adventure

I first came to Ethiopia in 2010… I only had a month to adventure around this incredible country, it wasn’t long enough!  Extending my visa seemed like too much effort and I left absolutely gutted to not get to Harar.  I thought about coming back to Ethiopia for years just to go see what I had missed.  However, when I decided to move here last year I knew I would be able to finally go and a few weeks ago my dream came true. I will admit I was worried I had built it up in my mind and might be disappointed… was I? Not at all… it was amazing!

One of the original gates to the city daily hosts a busy colourful market

One of the original gates to the city daily hosts a busy colourful market

I think my best decision was to drive the 500km from Addis Ababa to Harar…

“You’re driving? Why not fly?”
“You’re going on your own? You should fly! ”

This was what I was asked time and time again before the trip…

Here’s what you don’t get when you fly…

You don’t get the cool mountain air blowing in the window as you steam across passes. You don’t get the smell of eucalyptus trees on a plane, you can’t hear the children yelling “you you Faranji”, or see the smiles, waves and heads turn as you drive past. You don’t get the waves or the yells and whistles from the truck drivers as you pass them in blocked up villages. You don’t get the chance to harness your driving skills to dodge cows, goats, sheep, donkeys and camels, while young boys who can barely see over the backs of the cows pull their tails to drag them back off the road. You don’t see that every second man has a huge bag of khat (qat) and have them try to fling at you. You miss the chance to be sold birds, charcoal and wood as well. You can’t see the rolling hills and the deep valleys. You miss the women taking the donkeys with jerry cans to wait in a huge line at the village well to fill up with water for the daily chores. You miss it all on a plane – there is no sensory feast like I got… so when I can I will take the road – the journey is as good as (sometimes better than) the destination !

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The journey east can take anywhere from 7-9 hours depending on your luck with khat trucks, buses, camels, overloaded donkeys, and other life stock crossing the road. The drive once you are past Awash is amazing as you enter the drive up through the Chercher and Abra Gugu mountains and finally down into Harar where the gates to the walled city greet you filled with colour and movement. I managed a 8 hour drive over and a quick 7 hour trip back with a quick stop in Awash for petrol and a coke.

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Termed the ‘City of Saints’, Harar is a predominantly considered a muslim city with over 80 mosques hidden in its alleyways and considered by many to be the 4th holy city of Islam. Despite its Muslim appearance in 2003 UNESCO awarded Harar the City of Peace prize for existing with all of its varied religious group in harmony for so long. In the center of the city you can come across the grand mosque, a Catholic church and an Orthodox Church all within a stone throw from one another.

One of the many mosques hidden int he alleyways of the city

One of the many mosques hidden int he alleyways of the city

Its a maze of 368 alleyways inside the walls and a fun place to get lost – although you can always find your way back to the center. The alleyways are filled with people and activity and around any of the gates you will find busy markets in the late afternoon.

Children playing while women are busy carrying goods off to the market

Children playing while women are busy carrying goods off to the market

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I would have had little chance navigating the alleyways as behind many gates were hidden sites to check out.  I was recommended Biniyam from a friend at work, not someone who usually takes a guide I worried that he may not get what I was about and try to take me go and see things I really wasn’t interested in. This was not the case and we immediately hit it off talking like old friends, joking and enjoying each others company.

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She knew how to work the camera

We spent some time while walking with my polaroid camera taking photos and giving them to the children we met. We found some real characters along the way who knew how to work the camera with no prompting!

My great guide Biniyam using the polaroid camera so we could print out some pictures for the young girls

My awesome guide Biniyam using the polaroid camera so we could print out some pictures for the young girls.

So much character

So much character!

The best smile we met for sure

The best smile we met for sure

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Yellows

I loved just picking a spot by the gate and sitting watching the women dressed so birightly going about their business and shopping. They were happy (through translation) to engage in conversation, many of them were not from the city but had walked a long way to come in and sell their goods and would after sunset be taking the walk home.

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Busy market

Busy market

Chillies

Chillies

They say no trip to Harar is complete without meeting the ‘Hyena man’ – Yusuf. We drove along the wall of the city and then headed for a few minutes off road past Yusuf’s house and into a field. As we approached the lights from the car shone and we could see a lot of eyes shinning back, amongst all the eyes a man and a young boy sitting feeding the twenty hyenas who had gathered. We were the only ones there and Biniyam informed me that the hyena man came out every night to feed the hyenas even if there were no tourists. If he doesn’t then they come to his house and hang about waiting to be fed.

Biniyam shows me how its done - just a casual hyena on your back being fed!

Biniyam shows me how its done – just a casual hyena on your back being fed!

Yusuf has been doing this for years and they way he handles the hyenas immediately sets you at ease. They respond to his scolding and he pushes them off like misbehaving dogs, once I had watched him for a few minutes I felt more than confident being in their presence despite the fact they are wild animals. It was interesting to watch the dominant females feed while the others had to wait around for scraps to be thrown their way – they didn’t dare challenge the bosses of the pack.

Eye contact while I squat down only a meter from this hyena

Eye contact while I squat down only a meter from this hyena

I took some adventures outside of the city of Harar as well and I highly recommend Biniyam if you are looking for a guide on your adventure to Harar. He will tailor your experience to meet your needs, which may include taking in all the ‘tourist’ spots or just sitting in a market watching life move around you. His email is feresmegala@gmail.com – send him a message and let him know when you are heading over!

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Wanderlust… travel… adventure…

Why do I travel? To make the world a smaller place!

“I haven’t been everywhere but its on my list” – Susan Sontag

Botswana

Botswana

Wanderlust: An irresistible desire to travel to understand ones very own existence

Burma

Burma

I’m in love with the cities I have never been to and the people I have never met

DRC

DRC

“We travel not to escape life but for life not to escape us” – Anonymous

Namibia

Namibia

“Not all those who wander are lost” – J.R.R. Tolkien

Rwanda

Rwanda

And then I realised adventures are the best way to learn…

India

India

“Travel. It leaves you speechless then turns you into a storyteller” – Ibn Battuta

China

China

“The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.”
– Lao Tzu

Tanzania

Tanzania

“I would rather own little and see the world than own the world and see little of it”
– Alexander Sattler

Tibet

Tibet

“A good traveler has no fixed plans, and is not intent on arriving”
– Lao Tzu

Burma

Burma

Travel: The one thing you buy that makes you richer.

India

India

“Happiness to not a state to arrive at but a manner of traveling”
– Margaret Lee Runbeck

India

India

“The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes,
but in having new eyes.” – Marcel Proust

Peru

Peru

“People don’t take trips. Trips take people” – John Steinbeck

Uganda

Uganda

“Travel makes one modest. You see what a tiny place you occupy in the world”
– Gustave Flaubert

Thailand

Thailand

“Wherever you go becomes a part of you somehow.” – Anita Desai

Sri lanka

Sri lanka

“To travel is to take a journey into yourself” – Danny Kaye

Nepal

Nepal

“A nomad I will remain for life in love with distant and uncharted places”
– Isabelle Eberhardt

Bhutan

Bhutan

“We lean forward to the next crazy adventure beneath the skies” – Jack Kerouac

When your friends have kids…

I love having friends/ family to shoot spontaneous pictures of their children for them. I have no ability to direct a photoshoot so pretty much gave up on that idea after one attempt of that. I do love it when friends are just playing and enjoying their kids – thats when the magic appears!

P.S. I love B&W

Growing up on  a farm in New Zealand is the life

Growing up on a farm in New Zealand is the life

Family fun

Family fun

Bubbles & Mum - bliss!

Bubbles & Mum – bliss!

Water play in the Philippines... its hot outside

Water play in the Philippines… its hot outside

The best smile in the world... this guy

The best smile in the world… this guy, Rwanda

This boy has some serious style

This boy has some serious style, Mr Rwanda

Heroes come in all sizes

Heroes come in all sizes

At the beach in Hong Kong

At the beach in Hong Kong

Windy Hong Kong day

Windy Hong Kong day

Musicians in India

Musicians in India

Fun on the farm, New Zealand

Fun on the farm, New Zealand

A kiwi summer

A kiwi summer

Taking a Smoke Break

I’m not a smoker but I love to capture people taking a break from life and in a state of smoking ‘trance’. I know physically smoking isn’t good for you but there is a certain look people get in their eyes, a deep enjoyment and almost a sense of calm that seems to come over them… I am sure many a smoker would argue for the mental health benefits of that break. Here are a few images I have captured of men in a few countries in that moment…

Taking a break in the Mongolian countryside

Taking a break in the Mongolian countryside

Deep in thought, India

Enjoyment, India

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Bidi break, India

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Cowboy Mongolia

Cowboy, Mongolia

Chilling in China

Chilling in China

Happiness in AUGUST

QUICK BACKSTORY:: We created a 2014 Calendar with 100% of funds going to help rebuild one of the many villages in the Philippines destroyed by Typhoon Yolanda in November 2013. With the profits from the Calendars and many other amazing peoples generosity we (a big we) have been able to rebuild over a 100 homes and support so many more families… we are now into helping to rebuild a second village where many still need support. These blogs are images (month by month that were used in the Calendar from around the world) to give you some background story and some more food for thought.

Happiness… making the decision to be happy!

I met this young boy in Kigali when I was shooting photos of his mother and some other women at a cooperative at a Art Center. The portraits of the women were exhibited as a small display in the art center on International Women’s Day… they will come next month. Below are some photos of him and his friends who were hanging out for the few days I was with the women.

Children find happiness in simple things including posing for the camera and getting their photos back!

Making the decision to be HAPPY

Making the decision to be HAPPY

Friends

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Smiles from Tanzania

Last week I traveled to Tanzania helping to lead a group of International School students from Hong Kong on a Service & Cultural Learning experience. We spent time in a school in Njoro Village outside of Arusha, these are some of the beautiful smiling faces we encountered there…

Happiness

Triple Happiness

Hidden smile

Hidden smile

Beauty

Beautiful hidden smile

Pure sweetness

Pure sweetness

Shy but curious

Shy but curious

Friends make you smile

Friends make you smile

Hey!

Hey!

Can we come in?

Can we come in?

More images coming on my Facebook page : https://www.facebook.com/TashMcCarrollPhotoPhilanthropy